Ikkat
is a dyeing technique involving the application of dye resistant bindings in a
pre-determined pattern prior to the colouring of threads. The resulting
creation would expectedly surface in a lyrical colour extravaganza of finesse
and precision.
Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique wherein
bindings or substances resisting dye penetration are applied over the fibres in
pre-determined patterns and then the threads are dyed. Alteration of bindings
and using more than one colour for dyeing produces multi-coloured thread
effect. Removal of the bindings and the subsequent weaving of the threads would
form the desired pattern woven in the fabric.
The determining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of
patterns, by means of bindings, on the threads prior to the weaving of the
fabric. More the precision in the
application of the resist bindings, finer would be the pattern formed.
Tie and Dye is also a similar dyeing method but with a
difference. Here the fabric is woven first and the resist bindings are then applied
to the fabric before colouring.
Ikkat is classified into single-ikkat and double-ikat
styles.
Single Ikat fabric are created by interweaving tied and
dyed warp with plain weft or resisted weft yarns is inserted in plain weft.
Double ikat involves the process of resisting on both
warp and weft and then interlacing them to form intricate yet well composed
patterns.
In warp ikat the
dyeing of the threads would be of the warp (lengthwise lay of threads) across
which the plain weft (feed of thread woven breadth wise across the warp) is led
through.
In weft ikat it
would be vice versa. In double ikat both the warp threads and the weft threads
would be dyed separately and then woven together.
In warp ikat the patterns are evident on the warp lay
even before the weft is introduced. Ikat created by dyeing the warp
is simple as compared to the making of either weft ikat or double ikat.
First the yarn is tied in bundles. Yarn could be silk,
cotton, jute or any other fibre chosen as base material. The resist bindings in
the form of wax or any other dye resistant material, is then applied over the
yarn. The dye is applied carefully and systematically and according to the
desired shade.
The procedure of application of resist bindings afresh
for different colours is repeated till the dyeing process of all colours used
is complete.
Washed and dried in shade, the coloured threads are laid
out on the loom and the weft on small spindles is used to interweave across the
warp threads to create the fabric. Important is the pattern that has to surface
accurately on the warp for which the alignment of the warp threads is a
pre-requisite. If the alignment is precise, the resulting motif comes out as a
fine print rather than as a weave.
Here the skill of the weaver comes into play. The warp
threads are manually raised selectively to allow the weft thread to pass
through and how keenly this follows the intended design determines the fineness
of the resulting pattern on the fabric.
Patterns can be formed vertically, horizontally or
diagonally.
Weft ikat is preferred when it is the overall look
that is important and not the precision of the patterns. Double ikkat is even
rarer and an example is the Patola saree of Gujarat. Lesser accurate or poor
imitation double ikkat versions are available in the market.
The artistic excellence of ikat prints can be gauged from
its traditional motifs of flowers, dancing girl, creepers, leafs, parrot,
animals, birds, mythological characters and geometrical patterns. Most of the
ikkat printed sarees have repeated geometrical patterns of diamonds (rattan
chowk), circles, squares, lines etc.
Pochampally in Andhra Pradesh and the
Rajkot Patola weave of Gujarat are famous for their
individual brand of ikkat sarees. Ikkat prints are trending and high fashion on
a variety of fabrics like pure cotton, pure silk, georgette, crepe and
supernet, to mention some.
South Indian handloom cotton sarees of ikkat prints
having zari border with an elegant pallu are classic. They are apt for daily
casual, office and outings.
The Designer Rajkot Patola Pure Silk Ikkat printed sari
having embroidered border and pallu embellished with crystals and beads is an
exquisite creation. These are preferred wear for weddings, as bridal attire,
for festivals and grand social occasions.
The Georgette half and half pattern saree with ikat
prints is a stylish affair that would go well with parties and informal
functions.
Shop online Ikkat Printed Sarees, Please visit
Buy online fabulous Indian ethnic sarees, click here
UNNATI SILK PRINTS PVT. LTD,
#3-4-360, Vajra Complex, General Bazar (Tobacco Bazar), M.G.Road,
Hyderabad-500003.AP,India. 040-64555251.
UNNATI SILK PRINTS PVT. LTD, Satyabhama
Complex, Bhagyanagar Colony, Kukatpally. Hyderabad, India.
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